Santorini deserves it’s own story.
Last year, a friend and I trained and competed in our first sprint triathlon! And we crushed it! From there, we caught the bug. We said, let’s travel internationally AND do a triathlon! Shortly thereafter I found the Santorini Experience, a duathlon of swimming and running along the rugged sea coast of Santorini. Not even a week after the tri we said, we’re going to Greece! The power of intention.
2022 dates hadn’t been released yet, and as time went on, and I started seriously saving for the house, I figured Greece was just a pipedream. One of the more beautiful things about getting older and more experienced is I no longer try to force things. Life flows and opportunities present themselves and the path of least resistance is the one I’ve learned to enjoy walking the most. I figured the house would be my big commitment and travel could come in the years following.
Turns out, just a few days after my time in LA in early July, they released the Santorini Experience 2022 dates, for late September. Fresh off the heals of my breakup, with over 100,000 Skymiles points from being grounded from the air for the 2+ years of Covid, I excitedly texted my friend they had dates. Should we go? Within a matter of hours, our flights were booked and we were registered for the swimming leg of the race, the run being a half marathon that neither of us were up to.
I was back in the pool at the rec center regularly, looking out over my shoulder as I turned each stroke in the water, thinking about looking out and seeing the blue of the Mediterranean as I swam. I increased my swim time little by little because the mile and a half was twice as long as our swim in the current-assisting ocean of Point Lookout. I was entirely preoccupied with home improvements and work up until we left. We packed our buoys, swim suits, goggles, swim caps, and had only the slightest bit of anxious anticipation of such a long swim in the flat waters of the Aegean Sea. We’d done the miraculous once before, we’d do it again.
We arrived in Santorini Friday afternoon and had our swim first thing Sunday morning. We ate fresh tzatziki and the biggest platters of fresh seafood I’d ever seen, relaxed and napped off our jetlag on the south shore beaches of Akrotiri under umbrellas, and watched the sunrise from our traditional Santorini cave house. While on a beach somewhere we received an email reminding us to bring our cardiologist note stating we were cleared for the swim. Surely I would have heard about this were it mandatory earlier than a day or two before the race. Plus, everything is so laid back here. Surely this suggestion is just that. Not to worry.
Sunday morning came and we drove to Fira to find the Old Port of Santorini where the boats were docked to take us to the little island off the coast to swim back to land our mile and a half water journey. We meandered through the tight little cobbled market streets of the cruise ship port in the early morning without much traffic and found the stairs to the Old Port. And then they kept going. And going. And then we could see the port waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay down at the bottom. Like, way down. And then we saw the cable car. We were nearly halfway down, the steps weren’t steep, they were just many, and this would just add to our story telling, like right now. But by the time we got to the bottom a solid 30 minutes later, both our legs were like jello. Not ideal going into the swim, but we made it!
We weaved through all the swimmers donning their orange swim caps, circled up with friends, full of eager excitement, and got to the registration tent. “Do you have your cardiologist note,” was one of the first things she asked. I said, “No, I just heard of this yesterday. I don’t have one.” “You can’t swim then,” she said. The boats were leaving at 9 and we begged and pleaded and nearly cried to the Director of the race and his team. “We came all the way from the US for this trip! This is why we’re here!” We were consistently met with, not the easy going laid back Santorini vibes we were becoming accustomed to, but bureaucratic, red-tape, albeit safety related red-tape, that I was becoming less and less convinced we were going to be able to talk our way around. They said, if you’d like to ride on the boat with us you can. I thought, okay, maybe if we can get on the boat, we’ll get out there and they’ll say, go for it. So we kept our clothes on over our swimsuits, but were the only two people on the boat with a completely different vibe than the other 50 swimmers who were amped up and full of adrenaline as the boat took us further and further off shore.
We got to the launch site and swimmers jumped from the sides of the boat into the water. And we stayed seated. With an ounce of hope left, I looked around to the faces we’d been pleading with, praying for them to come over to us, to feel the sadness radiating off us and make an offer, an offer that never came. The swimmers all lined up on the edge of the water, ready to jump in and swim, waving and smiling, taking photos, and then they blew the start horn. We didn’t move from our seats on the boat across from each other. I cried reluctant tears of deep disappointment and disbelief. We watched swimmers take off and make their trek back, while our boat eventually pulled out ahead of them and brought us, the first registered swimmers back to shore.
Defeated, sad, but both of us trusting that we don’t always know why things happen the way they do, trusting and searching for a reason we were spectators in what we had been dreaming of being participants in for over a year, we set out to at least take that god-damn cable car back up the mountain and go about our own Santorini experience. We literally only had the suits on our backs. We left all our belongings in the car anticipating we’d be swimming. So we thrashed with the cruise ship folks coming into port like cattle through line to the cable car. Surely, if all these people are expected to move through this little cable car expeditiously, it must be free of charge. We had found a fellow New Yorker, now North Carolinian, amongst the push and shove of the moving crowd, and were chatting with her and her southern gentleman, when we saw the sign, “$6.” We looked at each other with complete bewilderment. Like, come on. Can we catch a goddamn break. We turned to our newfound friends, after telling them our brief story of disappointment, and had to add, and we didn’t bring any money. Is there any way we could borrow $12 to get to the top and venmo you? Thanks to these kind folks, the comradery of being New Yorkers wherever you go, and the southern hospitality of this couple, we thoroughly enjoyed our short trip back to the top of the mountain.
Our Santorini adventures only went up from there. We swam at hidden beaches, hiked some of the best hiking arguably in the world, saw constant breathtaking blue-water views matched by the iconic blue domed churches that make Santorini famous, and enjoyed enough americanos, frappes, and spanakopita, to last a lifetime (or at least until we make the trip back). Quiggs and I were the perfect travel companions. There’s something about vacation and travel that just puts everything in perspective. You put everything down and are just in the moment, wherever in the world you are. At least that’s how I vacation. I felt lightyears beyond where I had felt even a few months earlier. I wondered what I had done to be so blessed. And I reveled in each and every second of Santorini, but our last night, was by and far, the most magical. Our last day really.
We sailed to the other islands around Santorini, had lunch brought to us in lounge-chairs on the beach, saved a man from Florida that was drowning (if that’s not ironic I don’t know what is), and danced the Macarena as it played over the boat’s speakers with a woman from South Africa who got me to dance by saying to some of our Scottish friends, when will you ever be here again? Live it up! I’m a sucker for a good group dance and thought, damn if she’s not right!
Our night ended in the magical Ia, the best spot to watch the sunset in Santorini, packed with most of the folks on the island that time of day to catch the sun’s daily departure. We were a bit scattered, searching for a restaurant with a view and were met with, sorry, we have reservations. We were running against the clock and stumbled down some steps to our next hopeful dinner destination. It had the best view and maybe 10 tables. I knew it was a long-shot, but sauntered over to the host with a look in my eye like, I already know the answer to this question but if there’s a way, “Do you have a table for 2?” He looked at us, a bit bemused, with a look in his eye like, we both already know I really don’t, and said, “There’s a minimum of $45 euros per person,” to which we said, that’s not a problem, and were escorted to a two-top with glee.
We ordered lobster and octopus and seltzers as far as the day is long. And our host was our waiter, and was handsome. I listened as several of the women, straight and on their honeymoon with their wives alike, hit on and praised him and his service. We caught each other’s eyes every time he walked by the table. He was attentive, gracious, funny, and did I mention handsome? As our meal winded down, my dear friend said, you better not let this opportunity go. I talk a lot of shit but at the end of the day, I like a man to make the first move. It’s not old-fashioned, it’s out of experience that if I make the first move, they end up letting me make all of them and I’m not about that life no more. So Quiggs came to my rescue and said as the check came, “When do you get done with work? I think you two should get a drink.” Muh girl. The rest, well the rest is the end of this four-part story.
While he spoke enough English for us to talk and get to know one another a bit on our boutique hotel room’s patio pool-side, there’s another language that’s universal that we’d been speaking since the minute we met that we were becoming more and more fluent in as the moments passed. I asked him, “Do you drive a car?” “Motorbike,” he said. “Would you take me for a ride?” “Where do you want to go?” “Anywhere,” I said. “You’ll want to put on something warmer.”
I threw a light hoodie over my dress, and threw my leg over the back of his bike and my arms around his waist and we took off around the bends and curves of the streets of Fira, out to the coast. As I got more comfortable on the bike and the back of this handsome man, I leaned back and looked up. Every star in the sky was shining down on us. I took a deep breath in, and while we sped across this island I had come to fall in love with, with no helmets and no fear, I thought, God, if it’s my time to go, you can happily take me. He went faster and I tightened the grip of my legs around his and he offered a hand to my thigh. I’ve got you, it said.
And that, my friends, is the story of how Sara got her groove back. Here’s to hope, heartache, and the scenic journey back again. Nothing is ever happening to us, but for us. Like one of my favorite bands, Dawes says, “things happen, that’s all they ever do.”
Thanks for being on this ride with me, and here’s to 40!